Everyday Ease Raglan Pullover Child

 

The Basic Raglan Pullover is a quick and simple crochet project, perfect for both boys and girls. Made with easy double crochet stitches and worked seamlessly from the top down - no sewing required! It’s an ideal pattern for anyone new to top-down raglan yokes and wanting to try one for the first time. The pullover works up fast, making it a great choice for gifting or creating cozy handmade sweaters for your loved ones. Available in sizes 2 years to 12 years

Sizing:

Sizes: 2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12)

Garment chest: 24” (26”, 28”, 30.5”, 32”, 34”)

To fit chest: 21” (23”, 25”, 26.5”, 28”, 30”)

Materials:

·       Worsted weight (11-10 WPI) yarn:

468 (663, 774, 889, 995, 1025) yards approx.

·       5.5 mm and 5 mm crochet hooks (or size needed to obtain the gauge and one size smaller hook)

·       Yarn needle

·       4 stitch markers

Abbreviations (American terminology):

·       Ch = chain

·       St/s = stitch/es

·       Sl st = slip stich

·       Sc = single crochet

·       Sc-blo = single crochet back loop only

·       Dc = double crochet

·       Dc2tog = double crochet two together

·       Dc3tog = double crochet three together

·       Dec = decrease

·       Beg = beginning

·       Prev = previous

Gauge:

·       12 sts by 7.5 rows = 4” by 4” (with larger hook)

·       15 sts by 15 rows = 4” by 4” (with smaller hook)

Special stitches:

·       V stitch: (dc-ch1-dc) all in same stitch.

Notes:

·       Pullover is worked top down, seamlessly.

·       Yoke and sleeves are worked in joined rounds without turning. Body is worked in continuous rounds, without joining and turning.

·       Ch-1 does NOT count as a st.

·       For yoke, each round starts with ch-4, which counts as a dc plus ch-1.

·       At the end of each yoke round, last stitch is always worked into the joining sl st from prev row.

·       At the beg of each round (for body and sleeves), after ch 1, pull up the loop to the height of dc and then work.

·       For no decrease rounds (sleeves), instead of placing a single dc in last dc of previous round, a dc2tog is worked over the last st and the joining sl st (this will not change the st count).

·       For decrease rounds (sleeves), 1 st is reduced at the beg as well as at end of the round. At the end of the round, instead of dc2tog, dc3tog is worked (explained in the sleeve section). This dc3tog will reduce the st count by 1 (not 2).

 

Pattern:

Yoke:

Neck ribbing:

With smaller hook, (if you crochet too tightly, use larger hook for the ribbing rows too, especially for smaller sizes.)

Row 1: ch 7, sc in 2^nd ch from the hook and in each ch. (6 sts)

Row 2-60 (66, 68, 70, 70, 70): ch 1, turn. sc in 1^st st, sc-blo to last st, sc in last st. (6 sts).

Fold the ribbing in half, length wise, join both the ends with sl sts. Turn inside out.

With larger hook,

Round 1: ch 1, add 68 (74, 76, 78, 80, 80) sc evenly across the ribbing. Count your sts at the end and adjust if needed. Join with sl st to 1^st st.

(1 sc is added across each row, while increasing 1 sc every 8^th row i.e., 9 sc are added across 8 rows. Adjust the number of sts if necessary, at the end.)

Round 2: ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch-1, here and throughout the yoke), dc in same st as ch-4, dc in 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 20) sts (back) , V st in next st, dc in 16 (18, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts (right sleeve), V st in next st, dc in 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 20) sts (front), V st in next st, dc in 16 (18, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts (left sleeve), join with sl st into ch sp created by beg ch-4. (72, 78, 80, 82, 84, 84 sts plus 4 ch-1 sps)

Round 3-8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12): ch 4, dc in same st as ch-4, dc in each st to next ch-1 sp, *(V st in ch-1 sp, dc in each st to next ch-1 sp) rep from * to last V st, V st in ch-1 sp, dc in rem sts (do NOT forget to add the last st into the joining sl st from prev round), join with sl st into ch sp created by beg ch-4.

St count will increase by 8 every row. St count for the last row: (120, 126, 136, 146, 156, 164 sts)

Body:

Round 9 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13): Divide for front, back and sleeves

Ch 1, dc in ch-1 sp,  dc in each st to ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp (place a marker around this dc), ch 4 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8), skip all sts to next ch-1 sp , dc in ch-1 sp,  (place a marker around this dc), dc in each st to ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp, (place a marker around this dc), ch 4 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8), skip all sts to next ch-1 sp , dc in ch-1 sp, (place a marker around this dc), dc into the joining sl st from prev row. Do NOT join. Work in continuous rounds, without joining from now onwards. Place a stitch marker ithe 1^st st of each round. Move marker up as you work. (72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102 sts for body including chs; and 32, 36, 38, 40, 44, 46 sts plus underarm ch for sleeves)

Next round: ch 1, dc in each st. (72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102 sts)

Repeat last round till the length from shoulder to hem measures 12” (13”, 15”, 16”, 18”, 18”), hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Cardigan length can be easily adjusted by adding fewer or more rows.

Hem ribbing:

1 ribbing row is worked across each stitch. Work total 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102 rows.

(If you are new to this ribbing technique, here is link to the great tutorial video by TL Yarn Crafts: https://youtu.be/xsEPLeUSwmg)

With smaller hook,

Row 1: ch 7, sc in 2^nd ch from the hook and in each ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc-blo to last st, sc in last st. (6 sts)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st st, sc-blo in remaining sts, sl st into next 2 sts on hem. (6 sts)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 all around, ending on row 2 (work total 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102 rows). Fasten off.

Sleeves:

Sleeves are worked in joined rounds, without turning. To avoid any gaps, last sts are crocheted differently for both no decrease and decrease rounds.

No decrease rounds: Instead of placing a single dc in last dc of previous round, work a dc2tog over the last st and the joining sl st (this will not change the st count).

Decrease rounds: When decreasing at the end of the round, instead of adding dc2tog over last 2 sts, work dc3tog over last 2 sts and the joining sl st (this will reduce the st count by 1).

Working an extra dec over the joining sl st will prevent gap, without changing the st count.

Row 1: Right side facing, attach the yarn at left side ch of 2 centre underarm chs.

Ch 1, add 38 (42, 44, 46, 50, 52) dc evenly along armhole, join with sl st.

(There are total 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 unworked yoke stitches plus 4 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8) underarm ch, i e. total 36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts. Add 2 more sts (preferably dc2tog), one before and one after underarm ch, across the marked sts. This will avoid holes at the underarm.)

Round 2 (decrease round): ch-1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc3tog over last 2 sts and joining sl st. (36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts)

Round 3 (no decrease round): ch-1, dc in each st to last st, dc2tog over last st and joining sl st. (36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts)

Repeat last 2 rounds, 6 (7, 8, 8, 10, 10) more times. Repeat round 3, three more times. You can add fewer or more rounds to adjust the sleeve length. (Total 18, 20, 22, 22, 26, 26 rounds and 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30 sts). Repeat for another sleeve.

 

Sleeve ribbing:

With smaller hook,

Row 1: ch 7, sc in 2^nd ch from the hook and in each ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc-blo to last st, sc in last st. (6 sts)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st st, sc-blo in remaining sts, sl st into next 2 sts on sleeve.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 all around, ending on row 2 (work total 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30 rows).

Fasten off.

Repeat for another sleeve.

Finishing off:

Weave in the ends.

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Thank you for choosing my pattern. Please do not sell, copy or redistribute the pattern. However, feel free to make and sell your work.