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Kiara baby bolero

I had one ball of wool yarn and I wanted to try hand dying. So I used food colour and dyed this yarn. I made a bolero for my sweet niece Kiara with this yarn.




Materials

  • Light worsted yarn (100 gm)
  •  5.5 mm (or size needed to obtain the gauge)
  •  4 stitch marker
  • 4 buttons (size ¾”)
  • Yarn needle
  • Pair of scissors

Sizing:

Sizes: Newborn (0-3m, 3-6m, 6-12m, 12-18m, 18-24m)

Garment chest: 17” (18.5”, 19”, 21”, 22.5”, 24”)

Gauge:

12 hdc and 10 rows = 4" × 4"

Abbreviations (US terminology):

  • Ch = chain
  • St/s = stitch/es
  • Sc = single crochet
  • Hdc = half double crochet
  • Dc = double crochet
  • RS= right side

Notes:

  1. Ch 1, does not count as a stitch.

  2. Where increase is mentioned, add 3 hdc in same stitch.

Pattern:

Mark the centre sts of each of the increases (i.e 3 hdc in same st) every row. You will have total 4 marked sts.

Row 1 (RS): With MC, Ch 35 (35, 41, 41, 41, 41), hdc in 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6) ch starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in next ch, hdc in next 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6)ch, inc in next ch, hdc in next 10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 12) ch, inc in next ch, hdc in next 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6) ch, inc in next ch, hdc in last 5 ( 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) ch. (42, 42, 48, 48, 48, 48 sts)

Row 2-6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10): ch 1, turn, add 1 hdc in each st except the 4-centre marked sts. Add 3 hdc in each of 4 marked sts. (82, 90, 96, 104, 112, 120 sts)

Row 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11): divide for front, back and sleeves.

Ch 1, turn, sc in next 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts, ch 2, skip next 17 (19, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts, sc in next 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sts, ch 2, skip next 17 (19, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts, sc in last 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts. (52, 56, 60 sts for body including chs, 17, 19, 21 sts for sleeves) (52, 56, 58, 64, 68, 72 sts for body and 17, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26 sts for sleeves)

Next row: Loosely ch 1, turn, dc in 1st st, *sk next st, 2 dc (V st) in next st**, repeat from * to ** all across, dc in last st.  (25, 27, 28, 31, 33, 35 V sts & 2 dc)

Next row: Loosely ch 1, turn, dc in 1st st, *sk next st, 2 dc (V st) in the space between the V st from the previous row**, repeat from * to ** all across, dc in last st. Repeat last row till the length measures 7” (8”, 9”, 9,5”, 10”, 10.5”), ending on wrong side / even number row.

(Length can be easily adjusted by adding fewer or more rows, ending on even number row.)

Edging:

Next row: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st, add sc evenly across the rows of left front, add sc evenly along the neck opening, adding 3 sc for turning at the same time. Do NOT fasten off.

Adding buttonholes:

Attach 3 markers (for smaller sizes) or 4 markers (for larger sizes) to the right front, spacing equally, one at top, one at bottom and 1 or 2 in between. (You can add only 1-2 buttons to the yoke part if you prefer that.)

Ch 1 and add sc evenly across the rows of right front. Add buttonholes where you have put the st markers. For a buttonhole, loosely ch 3 and continue adding sc evenly (ch 3 forms a loop which serves as a buttonhole). Join to 1st sc of row with sl st. Fasten off.

Adding sleeves edging:

Right side facing, attach the yarn in one of underarm ch, ch 1, add sc evenly across the armhole. Fasten off. Repeat for another sleeve. Weave in the ends.

Picot option for edging:

Instead of simple sc edging for bottom hem, and sleeves, you can add picots every 4th stitch for more feminine look (Picot: ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from the hook).

To add picot edging, add 4 sc, make a picot, sc in next 4 sts, make a picot all around. You can add fewer or more sc depending on how much space you want in between picots.


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