Many times it is difficult to crochet a hat that fits perfectly. Right? That happened with me too many times. When I was pregnant with my daughter, I made her a beanie in newborn size. But it was so large that she wore it when she was 7-8 months old. 😂
I also made a beanie for my 8 year old cousin, but it came out adult size. It's really frustrating to make a beanie which doesn't fit properly.
Over time, I crocheted some beanies and learned few techniques, which I would love to share with you. The most common method is to crochet a flat circle of specific size (depends on the size of beanie you are making), then stop increasing the stitches and continue in rounds till you reach the desired height. This is the most widely used method to get the correct size. But sometimes even this method didn't work for me (It was totally my mistake, I admit). So I follow another method that resulted in perfect size beanie. For this method, no need to measure flat circle diameter.
You will need to do some calculations (I know, some of you hate maths). But don't worry. I will give you some easy formulas so you can just put the values and get the answers. If you don't have the actual head circumference measurements, you can refer the charts available online (make sure that the chart is from trusted source).
Swatch method:
Steps:
1. Select yarn for your beanie:
You can use yarn of any weight (sport, DK, worsted weight or bulky) and any composition (acrylic, cotton, wool or blended). It totally depends on your preference. Now select the appropriate hook for the selected yarn. All the yarn labels has the hook size for that particular yarn.
2. Select the basic stitch for your beanie:
Sc, hdc or dc can be used. Please remember if you want precise sizing, use shorter stitches like sc or hdc (especially if the yarn is worsted or bulky). Why? Because they add very little height for every round and hence the flat circle diameter can be adjusted precisely. If you want taller stitches, use thinner yarn for precise sizing.
3. Measure head circumference:
It is always best to measure the head circumference of the subject. For an accurate measurement, place a tape across the forehead and measure around the full circumference of the head. For accurate results, keep the tape snug. If it is not possible, follow the charts provided in this post.
4. Calculate beanie circumference (C):
It will depend on many factors actually. But in general for a snug fitting beanie, made with acrylic yarn and a hook mentioned on its label, the circumference should be 2-3" smaller than actual head circumference. (negative ease). Smaller sizes have lesser negative ease (1-2").
For less stretchy yarns like cotton, make a hat with no ease or very little negative ease.
Also, if you're using a much smaller hook than that recommended on yarn label (eg. Worsted weigth yarn and 4 mm hook), it will create a stiff fabric that won't strech much. In that case also, hat circumference should be equal to actual head circumference. If you are not sure, make a small rectangular or square swatch with selected yarn, hook and stitch pattern, and strech it with your hands. You will get a rough idea.
(You know why flat circle method didn't really worked for me? Because I directly used head circumference measurements for my calculations without considering the negative ease😜. Also when we stop incresing, we tend to crochet loosely.)
5. Calculate flat circle diameter (D):
Diameter = Beanie circumference/ 3.14
5. Make a swatch :
With the selected yarn and hook, crochet a chain of approx 15 cm length. Then work the selected stitch back and forth till the swatch is atleast 5 cm wide.
7. Calculations:
Count the number of stitches per inch of the swatch (S). Eg. If you have 18 stitches for a 6" wide swatch, S value will be 3 sts/inch (18 stiches/6 inches).
Now calculate when do you have to stop increasing the stitches in round. Stop increasing when you have X number of stitches.
X = S × Desired hat circumference
If you are making a hat for a person having head circumference 20", beanie circumference will be 18".
X = 3 × 20 = 54
So stop increasing when you have 54 stitches. After that work in rounds without any increases, till you reach the desired height.
8. Start crocheting in a flat circle:
No of stitches in first round depends on the stitch you have selected. For dc, 1st round has 12 stitches. For sc and hdc, first round has 6 and 10 stitches respectively. Increase number of stitches every round same as number of stiches in 1st round. Eg. For dc, increase 12 stitches evenly every round. Continue working in rounds till you have X stitches (for our example 54 stithces).
For a double crochet beanie
Round 1: 12 dc dy
Round 2: 24 dc
Round 3: 36 dc
Round 4: 48
For 5th round you wil increase only 6 stitches spaced evenly to get total 54 dc.
Continue to work in rounds without any increases, till you reach the desired height.
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